The Grain Store

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Grain Store

On the 24th January 1848, James W. Marshall found a shiny metal in the water wheel of a mill which turned out to be gold. All he wanted was an agricultural empire in the area, yet rumours spread and started the California Gold Rush, putting an end to his green dreams. Tho lots of people got rich. The world of restaurants has been seeing a similar Gold Rush, albeit with less success, for “eclectic menus” as this particular foodspot would call it.

Bruno Loubet’s new restaurant in the north of London is the newest pray to a trend of sophisticated, marginally strange and peculiar combinations for food. The wide, open and simple interior seems to be at odds with the complicated dishes that adorn the menu. Where have the golden days of good, simple flavors gone?

As one of the Top 20 New Restaurants of 2013 list on Square Meal, I must say I had certain expectations that once more proved to work against me. Decided to go with the Jerusalem artichoke soup (another big trend), for the simple reason of comparing it with the Ledbury’s version (as well as my Christmas one).

The soup was alright – yet ‘alright’ perhaps just isn’t good enough. There was certainly no “mmm dear holy innocent baby Jesus this is amazing” moment that I did have when at the Michelin star restaurant. The Croque Madame has an overpowering taste of mustard, which is a very basic mistake.

Perhaps I’m just mean because I was told I can’t take pictures – which is a very preposterous and “bourgeois” (yes, I use the term very loosely), despite the resound of silent clicks from through the room as cameras and phones did their thing. Luckily other staff was more permissive of my endeavor.

Grade: Purgatory


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